Creamed Spinach

I think we could all use a fresh take on creamed spinach. This dish is jazzed up with Citrus Kosho, a mix of various citrus fruits, lemongrass and chiles.

Creamed Spinach with Citrus Kosho
Recipe from Maximum Flavor by Aki Kamozawa and H. Alex Talbot

Serves 6 as a side dish

1 small onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves
1 tablespoon / 15 grams Citrus Kosho (recipe follows) or store-bought yuzu kosho
4 tablespoons / 56 grams unsalted butter
1 1/2 teaspoons / 38 grams fine sea salt
1 1/2 pounds / 680 grams baby spinach
1/2 cup / 120 grams crème fraîche

Put the onion, garlic, and citrus kosho in a blender and puree until smooth.

In a large saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion puree, salt, and cook, stirring, for 4 to 5 minutes until the mixture has thickened slightly and lost its sharp, raw flavor. Add the spinach a handful at a time, wilting each new addition before adding the next, seasoning the mixture very lightly with salt after every few additions. Add the crème fraîche and bring the mixture to a simmer. Taste for seasoning and serve immediately.

Citrus Kosho
Makes about 1 cup / 240 grams

12 limes
2 grapefruits
2 oranges
18 lemons
2 serrano chiles
3 stalks lemongrass
2 tablespoons / 36 grams fine sea salt
3 drops / 0.25 gram Boyajian lemon oil or lemon essential oil (optional)
3 drops / 0.25 gram Boyajian lime oil or lime essential oil (optional)
3 drops / 0.25 gram Boyajian orange oil or orange essential oil (optional)

Zest the limes, grapefruits, oranges, and lemons into a small bowl. Thinly slice the chiles. Remove the tough outer leaves of the lemongrass to expose the tender hearts. Slice the heart of the lemongrass. Put the citrus zest, chiles, lemongrass, and salt into a mortar. Use the pestle to pulverize the ingredients to a uniform paste.

Juice and strain 1 lime and 1 lemon and add them to the mortar and stir to combine. Add the lemon, lime, and orange oils if using to the mortar and stir to combine. Put the citrus kosho into a small jar and refrigerate for at least 2 days to let the flavors develop. Citrus kosho can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.